Castalejo Surf,
Behind Vila do Bispo we drive the beautiful, almost African style, road towards the sea. On the end of the road there are 2 options. Go right for Cordoama or left for Castalejo. With the surfguide tours we have surfed Cordoama a little more often because of the simple fact that the beach is a little more spread out. With this we usually find an uncrowded spot to surf.
Surf left.
If you ask me if I prefer right or left hand waves, I tell you honestly, I do not care. My turns are a lot better on my backside, left. generating speed and timing are a little easier on the frontside, so this is in the advantage if there are barrels on offer.
This morning we went left on top of the hill. And in the water there was a lot of left handers as well. My girlfriend and dog stayed on the beach while I paddled out together with just one Spanish dude.
(Almost) Barreled.
In the inside of the wave it got sometimes really hollow. To find the right wave and the right line to finish the wave at the barrel section was no easy task See the spanish surfer above hitting the hollow section as its closing out.
On a few all-or-nothing attempts I got absolutely smoked. Water everywhere and a hell of a paddle back out. But on one wave I got a lot of speed, ducked under the lip and had a pretty solid vision of the greenroom. At the moment I tried to take the doggy door the lip landed on my back. And obviously that is what is on camera.