Trough the eyes off a Gromm,
Long story short: If someone asks me what age I am I usually respond by saying I´m 14. This has changed lately by some people just assuming I said that I am 40 and shut up, thinking I look pretty ok, for 40. And my whole joke goes out of the window. Reality is, I do often feel like a kid. Especially in the water. Everything can be so fresh, new, overwhelming and beautiful that it feels like the ´first time´ every time again. Especially when I am surf guiding…
Sold a board, got a friend
One of my surfboards was for sale and got taken over by a kid a few days ago. Because both parents are not surfers and it´s still a pretty serious amount of money for an 11 year old, we let the kid try the board before he bought it. That day I took him under my wing, starting of by guiding him to a nice beach to try the board together with me. Gave him and his mother a few pointers how to handle the board with care and we actually had a super fun surf together.
Proud he showed me his new color-matching Leash and Surfears earplugs that I recommended him just a few days before. Once we got to Porto de Mos we got what we were hoping for. Super fun glassy blue/green waves with not a single soul in the water. We both got a lot of waves. It felt like summer, I decided to go and give the dog some water and try to shoot a surf picture. (see a little higher in the story)
